Your photography is often the only way buyers can evaluate your work. Poor photos kill sales of excellent art; great photos sell work that might otherwise be overlooked. The good news: you don't need expensive equipment. With proper technique, a smartphone can produce professional results.
This guide covers everything from basic setups to advanced color accuracy — whether you're photographing for social media, print production, or gallery submissions.
1. Equipment You Need
Good art photography is about technique, not gear. Here's what actually matters:
Camera
Modern smartphone OR any camera with manual controls
Tripod
Essential for sharp images and consistent framing
Lights
Two matched lights OR large window with diffusion
Gray Card
For accurate white balance and exposure
Background
Neutral gray or white seamless paper/wall
Level
To ensure camera and artwork are parallel
Natural light from a large north-facing window, a smartphone on a tripod, and a white wall is enough to start. Add equipment as you identify specific needs.
2. Lighting Setup
Lighting makes or breaks art photography. Your goal: even, diffused light with no glare or hotspots.
The Classic Two-Light Setup
Natural Light Alternative
A large north-facing window provides beautiful, diffused light — and it's free. Key considerations:
- Shoot on overcast days for softest light
- Avoid direct sunlight hitting the artwork
- Use a white reflector on the shadow side to fill
- Work during consistent lighting hours (same time each day)
- Block other light sources in the room
Avoiding Glare
❌ Problem
Hotspots and glare on glossy, varnished, or glazed work
✓ Solution
Angle lights further to the sides (60° instead of 45°), use polarizing filter on camera, shoot before varnishing if possible
3. Camera Settings
Whether using a phone or dedicated camera, these settings matter:
| Setting | Recommended | Why |
|---|---|---|
| ISO | 100-400 (lowest possible) | Minimizes noise/grain |
| Aperture | f/8 – f/11 | Sharpest results, good depth of field |
| Shutter Speed | Whatever gives correct exposure | With tripod, slow speeds are fine |
| White Balance | Custom (using gray card) or match your lights | Critical for color accuracy |
| Format | RAW if available, otherwise highest quality JPEG | Maximum editing flexibility |
| Focus | Manual, focused on artwork center | Prevents autofocus hunting |
Use your phone's "Pro" or "Manual" mode if available. Lock focus and exposure by tapping and holding on the artwork. Use the timer or a remote to avoid shake when pressing the shutter.
4. Shooting Process
Follow this step-by-step process for consistent, professional results:
Set Up Your Space
Position artwork vertically (on easel or wall), set up lights at 45° angles, place camera on tripod directly facing the artwork center.
Level Everything
Use a level to ensure artwork is straight, camera is level, and camera sensor is parallel to artwork (no keystoning/distortion).
Set White Balance
Place gray card in front of artwork, fill the frame, set custom white balance. Remove card before shooting.
Frame and Focus
Fill the frame with artwork plus small margin for cropping. Focus manually on the center of the piece.
Check Exposure
Take a test shot. Check histogram — avoid clipping highlights or crushing shadows. Adjust as needed.
Shoot Multiple Frames
Take several shots. Small variations help you choose the sharpest. Include a shot with gray card for post-processing reference.
5. Color Accuracy
Getting colors right is crucial — especially if you're selling prints. Buyers expect the print to match what they saw online.
Color Accuracy Workflow
- Use consistent lighting: Daylight-balanced lights (5000-5500K) are standard
- Set custom white balance: Gray card before each session
- Shoot RAW: Gives maximum flexibility in post
- Calibrate your monitor: A calibrated display is essential for accurate editing
- Compare to original: View your edited image next to the actual artwork and adjust
- Embed color profile: sRGB for web, Adobe RGB for print
If your monitor isn't calibrated, you're editing blind. A hardware calibrator (like Datacolor Spyder or X-Rite) is a worthwhile investment if you're selling prints. At minimum, compare your edits on multiple devices.
6. Editing Your Photos
Keep editing minimal — you're documenting art, not creating new art.
Essential Edits
- Crop: Remove background, straighten edges
- White balance: Correct any color cast using the gray card shot as reference
- Exposure: Minor adjustments if needed
- Lens correction: Fix any barrel/pincushion distortion
- Sharpening: Light output sharpening only
What NOT to Do
- Don't over-saturate colors
- Don't add contrast that isn't in the original
- Don't use filters or presets
- Don't remove imperfections that exist in the actual work
- Don't make the photo "better" than the actual art
7. Special Situations
Textured Work
For heavy texture (impasto, mixed media), consider raking light — one light from the side at a low angle to reveal texture. Take both a flat-lit "accurate" shot and a texture-revealing shot.
Very Large Work
For pieces larger than you can photograph in one frame: shoot in sections with significant overlap, then stitch in Photoshop or Lightroom. Maintain consistent exposure across all sections.
Work Under Glass
Glass creates reflections. Options: remove from frame if possible, use polarizing filter, angle lights more extremely, or photograph at night with room lights off.
3D Work (Sculpture, Ceramics)
Treat more like product photography: multiple angles, consider a turntable for consistency, use a large softbox as key light with fill reflector, seamless background curve.
8. Resolution for Prints
If you're making prints, you need sufficient resolution. Here's the math:
| Print Size | Minimum Pixels (300 DPI) | Camera Needed |
|---|---|---|
| 8×10" | 2400 × 3000 | ~7 MP (any modern phone) |
| 11×14" | 3300 × 4200 | ~14 MP |
| 16×20" | 4800 × 6000 | ~29 MP |
| 24×36" | 7200 × 10800 | ~78 MP (or stitch) |
For prints larger than your camera's native resolution, photograph in sections and stitch, or consider professional reproduction services.
- Clean artwork surface (dust shows up)
- Charge camera batteries
- Clear memory card space
- Set up lights and verify positioning
- Have gray card ready
- Level tripod and camera
- Block ambient light from other sources
- Set camera to manual mode
Ready to Showcase Your Work?
Once you have great photos, let buyers see how your art looks in their space with AR preview.
Create Free AR GalleryFrequently Asked Questions
A modern smartphone works well for most artists. If using a dedicated camera, any DSLR or mirrorless camera with manual controls is sufficient. The lens matters more than the body — a 50mm prime lens is ideal for minimal distortion. Lighting and technique matter more than expensive gear.
Position your lights at 45-degree angles to the artwork, not directly in front. Use diffused light sources (softboxes, diffusion panels, or bounced light) rather than bare bulbs. For glossy or varnished work, you may need to adjust angles carefully or use polarizing filters.
For high-quality prints, you need at least 300 DPI at print size. For a 16×20 inch print, that means 4800×6000 pixels minimum. Most modern cameras and phones exceed this. For very large prints (24×36+), you may need a higher-resolution camera or to photograph in sections and stitch.
Use a gray card or color checker in your setup shots to set proper white balance. Shoot in RAW format if possible for maximum editing flexibility. Edit on a calibrated monitor. Compare your screen image to the original artwork and adjust until they match.
Both work well when done correctly. Natural light (indirect daylight from a north-facing window) is free and produces beautiful results but changes throughout the day. Artificial light (daylight-balanced LEDs or studio lights) is consistent and controllable. Many artists use both depending on circumstances.